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Kenai Fjords National Park: My First Taste of Alaska’s Wild Coast
Two Sides of Kenai Fjords National Park
Kenai Fjords National Park is one of those places that immediately reminds you just how wild Alaska really is. The park has two very different areas: the fjords along the North Gulf Coast, which are accessible only by boat, and the Exit Glacier Area, located about five miles outside of Seward, Alaska, to the west off the highway. Experiencing both gave me a well-rounded introduction to one of the most unforgettable National Parks of Alaska.
Where I Stayed: RV Travel in Alaska Begins
Since I had just arrived in Alaska, I wasn’t yet comfortable with the abundant boondocking options scattered across the state. For this stop, I decided to ease into RV travel in Alaska by staying at the municipal campground right on the shoreline of Resurrection Bay in Seward. The location was perfect, waterfront views, easy access to town, and close to everything I wanted to explore. Be sure to check out my blog post about the amazing town of Seward Alaska.
Starting at the Kenai Fjords Visitor Center in Seward
Located conveniently in Seward’s harbor area, the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center was a must-stop for me. I loved how it set the tone for the adventure ahead. Inside, I wandered through exhibits explaining the park’s glaciers, wildlife, and ecosystems, and made sure to watch the short film they offer. It was captivating and really helped me grasp the sheer scale and beauty of the fjords and glaciers.
The rangers were incredibly helpful, answering my questions and offering trail maps and advice. It felt like the perfect way to immerse myself before heading deeper into the park.
Getting the Lay of the Land at Exit Glacier
My visit included both a boat trip into the fjords and time exploring the Exit Glacier Area by vehicle. On my first full day, I headed from Seward to Exit Glacier just to get familiar with the area. There’s an added bonus here, another visitor center right at Exit Glacier.
This initial visit was all about logistics: checking parking to make sure my RV and towed Jeep would fit, scouting potential boondocking spots, and deciding which Kenai Fjords National Park hikes I wanted to tackle later.
A Choppy Day on the Fjords (and a Lesson Learned)
The next day was my boat tour into the fjords—and in hindsight, I really should have waited one more day. Instead of calm seas and sunshine, I found myself on a rainy, choppy six-hour boat ride. Despite taking a double dose of Dramamine the night before and again that morning, I still got seasick.
The rough water turned the tour into what felt like a six-hour roller coaster that I couldn’t get off. At one point, I remember thinking,
just let me off, I’ll swim back to town,
fully aware that was not an option.
Later, I learned that even the larger eight-hour tour boats with over 100 passengers cut their trips short that day because nearly everyone got sick. Turns out, boat size doesn’t matter when the Gulf of Alaska decides to be angry.
Wildlife Sightings Worth the Ride
Despite the less-than-ideal conditions, the wildlife sightings were incredible. We spotted orca and humpback whales, puffins, mountain goats, sea lions, sea otters, and porpoises. I only managed decent photos of sea otters, since they were closer to Resurrection Bay where the water was calmer.
Once we re-entered the bay, my seasickness faded almost instantly. I skipped the lunch onboard but brought it back to shore with me, and it ended up making a pretty great dinner that evening.
Hiking Trails in Kenai Fjords National Park: Exit Glacier
My final day in Seward turned out to be absolutely gorgeous, blue skies and sunshine at last. After a self-guided walking tour of town, I packed up the RV, hitched up the Jeep, and headed back to Exit Glacier for hiking before continuing my Alaskan journey.
The
Hiking trails in Kenai Fjords National Park
range from easy walks to serious climbs. I chose the Glacier Overlook Trail, a 1.8-mile round-trip hike with about 557 feet of elevation gain. The trail was well maintained and offered stunning views of Exit Glacier. Along the way, signs marked where the glacier once extended, seeing how far it has receded over time was both fascinating and sobering.
For those looking for a bigger challenge, the Harding Icefield Trail is an 8.2-mile round-trip hike that rewards you with sweeping views of the icefield stretching endlessly into the distance. I didn’t hike it this time, but it’s firmly on my list for my next Alaska visit.
Kenai Fjords National Park Itinerary: Final Thoughts
Experiencing both the fjords by boat and the Exit Glacier area on foot gave me a deeper appreciation for the park’s diversity. While the seas didn’t cooperate, the wildlife, glaciers, and hiking trails more than made up for it. Kenai Fjords National Park left me humbled, inspired, and already planning my return.
Kenai Fjords National Park Itinerary
Location: Seward, Alaska
Best Time to Visit: June–August (peak wildlife, best boat tour conditions)
Ideal Length of Stay: 2–3 days
Entrance Fee:
- Exit Glacier Area: Free
- Fjord Boat Tours: Separate fee (varies by operator)
Getting There:
- From Anchorage: ~2.5 hours via Seward Highway (one of the most scenic drives in Alaska along the Turnagain Arm)
- Exit Glacier Road is paved and RV-friendly
RV Notes:
- Parking at Exit Glacier can accommodate larger rigs with towed vehicles
- Limited boondocking near Seward; municipal and harbor-area campgrounds are a good base
- Fuel up in Seward before heading out
Suggested Kenai Fjords National Park Itinerary:
- Day 1: Seward Visitor Center → Exit Glacier Area scouting + short walks
- Day 2: Fjords & glaciers boat tour (watch the marine forecast!) – Be sure to check weather forecasts, and adjust itinerary accordingly to avoid the choppy seas!
- Day 3: Exit Glacier hikes → Seward walking tour → onward travel
| Season | Months | Typical Weather | What To Expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late Spring | May-Early June | Cool, 40s–50s°F, lingering snow | Fewer crowds, limited boat tours, muddy trails |
| Summer | June-August | Mild, 50s–60s°F, rain possible | Best wildlife viewing, full boat tour schedule, peak season |
| Early Fall | September | Cool, 40s–50s°F, increasing rain | Fewer visitors, fewer tours, dramatic scenery |
| Winter | October-April | Cold, snow, limited access | Exit Glacier access only, no fjord boat tours |
Best Time to Visit Kenai Fjords National Park (Weather Guide)
Quick Take:
If your goal is whales, glaciers, and hiking trails all in one trip,
July is the sweet spot. If you prefer fewer people and don’t mind cooler temps, late May or early September can be a great compromise.
Frequently Asked Questions About Kenai Fjords National Park
Is Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by RV?
Yes. The Exit Glacier Area is easily accessible by RV, including larger rigs towing a vehicle. Roads are paved, and parking areas are designed to handle oversized vehicles. The fjords section, however, is only accessible by boat.
Do I need a boat tour to see Kenai Fjords National Park?
To see the fjords, tidewater glaciers, and marine wildlife, yes, a boat tour is required. The Exit Glacier Area offers land-based experiences, hiking, and glacier views without a boat.
Are boat tours in Kenai Fjords rough?
They can be. Conditions in the Gulf of Alaska change quickly, and even large boats can be affected by wind and swell. If you’re prone to seasickness, choose calmer forecast days, sit mid-ship, and don’t rely solely on medication.
(Personal opinion: smaller boats give better wildlife encounters but rougher rides, bigger boats are more stable but still not immune.)
What wildlife can you see in Kenai Fjords National Park?
Common sightings include:
- Orca and humpback whales
- Sea otters and sea lions
- Puffins and seabirds
- Mountain goats (often spotted on coastal cliffs)
Wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but this park delivers more often than not.
What are the best hiking trails in Kenai Fjords National Park?
The most popular Kenai Fjords National Park hikes are in the Exit Glacier Area:
- Glacier Overlook Trail: Moderate, 1.8 miles round trip
- Harding Icefield Trail: Strenuous, 8.2 miles round trip with massive payoff
Both offer an up-close look at glacial retreat and dramatic mountain scenery.
Is Kenai Fjords a good first Alaska national park?
Absolutely. It’s one of the best National Parks of Alaska for first-time visitors because it combines:
- Easy road access
- Boat-based glacier viewing
- Wildlife encounters
- Well-maintained hiking trails
It’s wild, but not overwhelming.
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